Paulette Mitchell's latest book, The Spirited Vegetarian (Rodale, 2005), taps a little-known chemical truth: Small amounts of alcohol release flavors in food that would otherwise remain hidden. Here's the science: All foods have a unique taste that comes from complex layers of flavors. Add alcohol, and you amplify them; the alcohol itself is usually cooked off. Mitchell's realization that most vegetarian recipes ignore this was the impetus for her book, which offers more than 100 recipes--from appetizers to desserts--using Zinfandel, Riesling, tequila, creme de cassis and dozens of other spirits.

Although the premise is impeccable, I found the recipes uneven. I loved the innovative Tequila-Braised Kale as well as the Gingered Squash Risotto with Glazed Pecans and Fried Sage (Riesling). But I was disappointed with the less-than-special Olives Baked in Cabernet and the Acorn Squash and Red Lentils with Toasted Walnuts (Riesling). Neither of these recipes justified the effort.

The dessert section, however, is very appealing. Mitchell has enormous skill with fruits, and both the Java-Sauced Poached Pears (Kahlua) and the Oranges in Honey-Marsala Sauce were outstanding.

Quibbles aside, The Spirited Vegetarian delivers on its promise to use spirits to add flavor to every course of a meal. And while that delivery may be hit-or-miss, there are enough tempting dishes to make this unique cookbook well worth adding to your collection.

COPYRIGHT 2006 Vegetarian Times, Inc. All rights reserved.
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